Sunday, October 26, 2008

Odawara Castle

We took a train to Odawara today. This city by the sea is about 30 miles west of Yokosuka on the edge of the Fuji-Hakone National Park. Depending on the number of times you change trains, the trip takes about an hour-and-a-half. I had been wanting to get out there for about a month, but it's impossible to see everything at once. I've got to pace myself. The city's claim to fame is the Odawara Castle of the Hojo family which controlled this part of Japan during the 15th century. The castle, a short walk from the train station, is a restoration dating back to 1960. Today it is open to the public as a museum. According to the history the main castle structure, known as the donjon, has been destroyed and rebuilt several times. On the grounds surrounding it are a large number of trees; plum, cherry, azalea and wisteria. Photography is not permitted in the castle itself, but once I reached the uppermost observatory platform, I was able to take pictures of the surrounding area. The moat and stone wall from the original complex remain.

There was a light drizzle falling on our walk to the Yokosuka Station, but once on board the more we traveled west the more the damp weather abated. By the time we pulled into Odawara the conditions were cool and dry.

Once again we hit on a tourist site that offered very little information in English. Except for a small brochure the lady handed us from behind the admission desk, we were hard pressed to clearly understand the full significance of the displays and artifacts housed in the castle. Nevertheless, we were still able to pick up new knowledge simply by studying the exhibits. The longer I am in this country the more fascinated I am with its history.

The interior is made up of four floors, each lined with period tools, weapons, pictorial prints, garments, armor and historical ornament. Melba didn't care to challenge the steep steps after the second floor and she opted to wait for me at the gift shop on the grounds below. She should have stuck around. The highest floor of the castle housed a top-notch souvenir shop stocked with all kinds of unique trinkets. I barely gave them a glance. The expanse of the Pacific to the east and the range of mountains forming a backdrop to the city were what interested me. Standing in the open with a view like that makes me wish I had a better camera.

We only came across one American the entire time we were there. The same is true for the train ride coming here and going back. We had to ask ourselves, "Where are all the Americans from the base on a Sunday? Are they instead driving their personal vehicles to the tourist spots or are they spending the weekend hours shopping?" We just find it curious.

From the upper-most tier there were excellent views in all directions from Odawara. On a clear day Mount Fuji dominates the landscape to the west, but while we were there it was shrouded in clouds. It was only when we were pulling away from the train station that the clouds lifted enough to reveal its snow-capped peak, but only briefly. Sorry, no picture.